I don't think I was destined to be a surfer.I had heard there were great waves in Liberia. There's even a movie about surfing here. Quite a few people have picked it up since coming here, buying boards and going out every weekend. You're so close to the ocean you can wake up early and surf before you go to work.
I'd tried it once before, in Australia. Long ago. I remember it as being fun; I even managed to stand up! But not this time. I went for the first time here a couple of weeks ago. Borrowed a board from a friend and we headed out near Kendeja, a brand new 5-star hotel built by Bob Johnson (of BET fame) early one morning. I basically sputtered around the water, occasionally body surfing but mostly just exhausting myself. And I started feeling sick (a la typhoid) shortly thereafter. Probably just coincidence. Unfortunately, my innate surfing abilities did not reveal themselves. Sigh. Time to cross professional surfer off my list of potential careers.
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